Hidden Cotswold Tour 23rd June 2023
I was at the Indigo Hotel in Bath at 9.30 to meet today’s guests, Mary and Keith from South Carolina.
It was a bit overcast, but the forecast was not showing any rain which was good.
After our introductions, we set off through Bath in the direction of Castle Combe..
Castle Combe
Fortunately, being mid-week and quite early in the day, Castle Combe was not too crowded.
This meant I could park up and walk around the village with them. We managed to get some photos looking up the high street and spent some time in the 13th Century church of St James.
Castle Combe has been described as the prettiest village in the Cotswolds. This magical and ancient village, mentioned to the Domesday Book of 1086, was once a weaving town at the heart of the Cotswolds wool trade. Now a popular tourist destination with good reason.
Cirencester
Moving on and driving North we passed through the capital town of the Cotswolds, Cirencester, which, under the Romans, was the second largest town in England.
We could not stop for two reasons, one we had a lot of ground to cover and two there were no parking spaces due to it being market day. We drove slowly through the town getting a quick view of the impressive church of St John the Baptist.
Cirencester, often referred to as the Capital of the Cotswolds was the second largest town in Britain during Roman times. The market square is dominated by the cathedral-like Parish Church of St. John Baptist which is one of the largest in England.
Coln St Aldwyns
I do like to stop at Coln St Aldwyns. It is a haven of peace. Sheep resting in the shade of an old oak tree. The river flowing gently under the bridge. Keith spotted a large brown trout feeding and however hard I looked, I could not see it. It was definitely there, though, as Mary could see it too!.
At one point there was a heron taking a rest on a rock in the stream. All very pastoral.
The village of Coln St Aldwyns is in the heart of the Cotswolds. Situated in unspoilt countryside and nestling in the beautiful Coln River valley. A tranquil spot away from the main tourist route. A perfect spot for reflection.
Bibury
On to Bibury and a much busier place. As usual, parking is a challenge made more difficult by road works. On my return search I, somehow, missed the red traffic light and drove straight through it. Keith had spotted this and was very calm when we came face to face with an oncoming car!
We did park and had a gentle stroll along Arlington Row, round rack Isle and back to the car.
The main attraction of Bibury is Arlington Row. A group of ancient cottages with steeply pitched roofs dating back to the 16th Century.
This image appears on UK Passports.
Lunch
Lunch, I decided would be in the tiny village of Asthall. Unfortunately I meant to point out the old home, Asthall Manor, of the Mitford Sisters. But we were busy talking!
However, I left them to have lunch in the lovely pub, the Maytime.
With one eye on the clock we had to drive slowly through the historic town of Burford.
I had not ‘sold’ Bourton-on-the-Water very well and I think they agreed with me. It is very touristy it is sometimes best just to be driven through!
Asthall is a small village a couple of miles down the Windrush Valley from Burford.
However for a small village, Asthall has a rich history: a former Roman settlement on Akeman Street, which linked Cirencester with St Albans; the village church, dates back to the 12th century, possibly earlier; and the Elizabethan manor house, Asthall Manor, was home to the Mitford sisters – it was here that Nancy Mitford penned much of ‘Love in a Cold Climate’.
Lower and Upper Slaughter
We stopped in Lower Slaughter and walked along the River Eye and up to the mill.
I pointed out the village hall which was used as the shop in the 2020 film of Emma.
We drove trough the peaceful Upper Slaughter and made our way to Stow-on-the-Wold to leave their luggage at the hotel.
I had not bargained for the terrible traffic getting in to the town.
A Mill is recorded in the Doomsday Book of 1086 on the site of the The Old Mill. In the 14th Century it had begun to be known as Slaughter Mill and by the 18th Century had become independent of the manorial estate.
Chipping Campden
On Mary’s wish list was a walk on the Cotswold Way. But most of the day we were too far away to sensibly divert to it. So, I really wanted to take Mary to the start of the walk in Chipping Campden.
We did manage a little walk to the edge of the town on the Cotswold Way before heading back to Stow.
Chipping Campden is one of the loveliest small towns in the Cotswolds and a gilded masterpiece of limestone and craftsmanship. The main street curves in a shallow arc lined with a succession of ancient houses each grafted to the next but each with its own distinctive embellishments.
Stow-on-the-Wold
Another request was to walk the last bit of the tour back to the hotel. I had planned this to be from Bourton, but we decided on something a little shorter. So, I took them to the edge of Broadwell and left them to walk along part of Monarch’s Way (the escape route of Charles ll) and to their hotel.
I hope you managed to enjoy Stow on Saturday morning before your taxi to the airport.
Stow-on the-Wold is the highest of the Cotswold towns standing exposed on 800 feet high Stow Hill at a junction of seven major roads, including the Roman Fosse Way. The vast Market Square testifies to the towns former importance. Around the square the visitor is faced with an elegant array of Cotswold town houses and shops.
Route
It was a lovely day spent with both of you, thank you for making it a memorable tour.
I enjoyed being ‘grumpy’ together.
I was glad to see pictures of your lovely home and the incredible views across the Blue Mountains.
I am amazed you ever leave there!
I will look out for a house swap.
Oh! and I hope you found your car in the car park!
If you enjoyed my tour and would be happy to share any thoughts or photos please click on the TripAdvisor link below. Thank you
